MAGAZINE January 14th, 2021

WUULS INTERVIEW

On an excursion in the Gran Sasso mountains, Emanuela Picchini discovers an association that deals with native sheep and biodiversity. She falls in love with it and thinks about a zero km knitwear project. Wuuls was born shortly thereafter.

How did it all start?

"I worked in a knitwear company between Marche and Abruzzo, and I went hiking on weekends. So I discovered the association that deals with the conservation of the biodiversity of the Abruzzo national park. And the autochthonous breeds of sheep, Sopravvissana and Gentile di Puglia, which over time have been crossed with merino rams for a repopulation of the park. These Abruzzo wools, snubbed by the textile industry because of their shaggy appearance although with great thermal and waterproof properties, have found a new softness in the crossing. Before, I thought about proposing it to the company I worked for, but I didn't find great enthusiasm, so I did research. It took me a year to find a company that worked the product for me, after which Wuuls was born ".

Even in the whiter version your sweaters are always off white. Can you explain why?

"The fleece of our sheep is obviously washed and purged but due to the conditions of freedom and well-being in which the animals live it is dirtier than perhaps that of the Australian flocks that can be seen in the photos. We like to respect and preserve this characteristic, without bleaching the wool, then, through chemical processes"

Doesn't the fact of working with flocks from a relatively small geographical area limit you in production?

"Not at the moment. From a collection of 5 thousand kilos of wool we went to 10 thousand and then 15 thousand, there is the possibility to satisfy the request. And if demand grows significantly, to be truly sustainable we will have to diversify".

How important is craftsmanship in your manufacturing?

"Obviously the production of the products is entirely Italian, we use machinery that avoids the waste of material, and in this sense the production is super technological; on the other hand, everything related to the world of dyes was born from extremely artisanal processes (for example dyeing with ford, just to give an example) that have been industrialized in recent years given the need of the textile world to discover more sustainable dyes. Advanced craftsmanship for us is just that: ancient farms that have been brought to light and ancient dyeing techniques that are industrially developed by leaders in the sector.

The collection you present at WSM

We always carry the portfolio of timeless basic garments that we carry on and then we created a small capsule of over genderless garments. “The challenge of accepting oneself” inspired us in this difficult period. We are sure of one thing: the fluidity that helps us recover lost self-esteem"

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